I have just found a CA18DE auto with a damaged side (as long as the damage isnt to bad I can get it fixed for next to nothing). Is there any issues with the auto or do you just prefer manuals? Honestly for my daily driver with not a lot of power I'd rather an auto. As long as you dot have stockies on the back and dont do osmething stupid the cops generally arent to bad here. My brother drove a 1JZ turbo Cressida for ages on his Ps and only got caught when the idiot did a burnout in front of a cop he didnt see. I'd much rather keep the car legal so even if they do harass me I can politely tell them to stick it.
As for the engine conversion, in this case, I cant really see it getting out of hand. Theres really not much I can do it that hasnt already been done. I need a computer, a pipe and a gearbox. With the boost wound up it was pushing ~200kw through a albins gearbox and 35s so with such a lightweight car and everything even with the boost much lower and tuned much more reliably it would still be over 200rwkw. And the best part is because it is a factory option engine it doesnt need engineering or anything.
I think wether I go a CA18 or a SR20 the plan would be to redo suspension (legally), some nice mags and tyres and a body kit. Then when I'm off my Ps drop the worked SR20 in with a new ECU and a manual gearbox. If I get a motech I even have the wiring loom and everything done. I dont think I'd bother deturboing it I did some research and its a pain.
Dam coilover laws. Thought it might be different for street cars. Seems the same law for adjustable control arms to. I more meant what rim and tyre sizes can you fit legally. Too used to 15x8 steelies and measuring in inches.
You kinda said to buy either an SR or a CA. Would you recomend just buying either? This CA18DE auto is a really good deal for me since I can probably get it for just over $1000 and all it need is a few new panels and I work part time at a smash repairs. I can probably fix it for less than $1000. Is there any real differences in them other than slight wiring differences and a different bell housing? Would it be any easier to do a conversion on the SR than the CA when I'm planning on a new computer anyway?
I have been doing research:
Seems to me pretty straight forward swap. The only thing I can see me not needing if I buy a turbo one later is the bellhousing. Ill still need an ECU, better radiator/intercooler and a new pipe and it would mean I'd have to start again from scratch with suspension and everything.
Thats a very nice car but the problem is its in Adelaide. The other thing is cars seem more expensive here in vic from what I've seen.
Thanks for your help.
EDIT. Missed the above post. Im not positive wether it is stroked or not. We recently blew it up (not an unreliable motor just basically sitting on the limiter breathing dust and was tuned slightly too lean for the race) and I know the engine we have is stroked and the spares are not but I'm not entirely sure what needs replacing in it. I think it might be a SR20DET though that I will get. I have no idea what needs to be upgraded on the car as far as brakes and everything go but I know exactly what the SR22DET feels like to drive. I went from a go kart to driving with it. Also I would tune it much lower than what it is currently at for reliability reasons. We also do have a bit of experience around SR20s but not silvias. Im not just going to drop it in and think its going to work fine. I am doing research. I always do heaps of research before putting money into anything. I realize I know next to nothing about this and that I need to know a lot more before even buying one.
http://www.carsales.com.au/all-cars/private/details.aspx?Cr=0&R=11107624&keywords=&trecs=38&__sid=132B76D1B66C&__Ns=pCar_PriceSort_Decimal|0||pCar_RankSort_Int32|1||pCar_Make_String|0||pCar_Model_String|0&__Qpb=1&tsrc=allcarhome&__Nne=15&seot=1&__N=1216 1246 1247 1252 1282 4294963846 4294966407 903&silo=1011
How much would it cost to get it roadworthied at a guess? Seems like not to much to fix.